Car Maintenance question

[Dreamer]

I think I have the solution to my issue. And I've already ordered the part. But I figured, what the heck. Might as well posit this to everyone for fun.
I drive a 2008 Chrysler Sebring. Sedan, XLS trim. With a 2.4L. It's crap.
Amway, a couple weeks ago I noticed my floorboards got absolutely soaking wet during my short dive to work. 11 minutes. I could see the water dripping from under the dash, too. So I knew that meant my AC drain, or whatever, was clogged. I figured I'd get that unclogged in the next couple days. Don't judge me, I was busy! I was in the middle of a move! (my fiancée and I bought a house).
Anyway, then I noticed a hissing sound whenever I turned left. Definitely related to the AC. That day, when I got back into my car after work, the AC was not working.
I'm putting that as simply as possible, though.
Fact is, I think the BLOWER stopped working. It's either gummed up or plain broken.
Before you ask, it's not a blower motor resister issue. The blower’s not even no-loading. I had that problem about a year ago. I changed my resister and all was fine.
I'm fairly confident I blew out my blower.
Here's a good hint for you, too. When I drive with the AC "on" you can feel cold air (we're talking AC air, here. It's August in Texas, after all. it's not external air) coming from the vents. Just sort of slowly spilling out.
So I know the AC is working. And when I change vents I can hear the flues flipping around.
So, again, I'm fairly confident it's the blower motor.
Consensus?

[Deacon]

Could be. The condensation inside is a problem though.

Also, have you popped the hood with the A/C turned on to see whether the clutch is engaged? If it's the blower motor alone, you should hear nothing when you crank the fan speed up. It could also be a faulty control. Try switching it to recirculate and back for instance. The only way to know for sure is to start proving stuff with a multimeter to see if you're getting power to the fan. And test the resistance of the fan, but you'd probably have to cut the electrical lines to get those measurements. If the fan motor is cheap, might as well throw some cash at it and see.

[Dreamer]

Thanks for the reply!
My car has a serpentine. I'm not sure if that helps any, but at least I know it's not an issue with the belt or I'd have bigger issues.

When I switch between recirculate and back there's onlyu one difference. Without it on you can feel some cool air barely escaping the vents. so I think the slight difference in pressure with the windows down is allowing that to happen. When recirculate is on the pressure difference wouldn't matter. And it doesnt' seem to, because no air comes out at all that way.

I ordered a aprt from amazon. Aftermarket, for abuout $45. I'm stillw aiting on that. But most local autoparts stores are charging about $110 for the part.

[Dreamer]

FYI, dropped the new blower into my car. It was pretty easy, actually. Location is sh*tty, but whatever. It's a sebring. Yuo have to take off the front driverside wheel in order to change the battery.
That's not a joke...
So what could I have expected...
Anyway, popped in the new blower and it works now. I still need to clear out the a/c drain, though, or I'll have the same problem again very soo, I think.

but anyway, I got the part for $43. 2 day shipping from Prime. Everywhere Ic alled locally wanted almost 3 times that and they werent' even Mopar parts. Not that mine is... still, for $43 and a couple hours of my time? Worth it.

Also, I gained knowledge. And if this was a battle? Well, I forget the precentage. But I'm pretty sure knowing is at least half of it.

[Deacon]

Yep, it's a great sense of accomplishment, whether changing a blower motor or a tail light bulb

[Dreamer]

I never followed up. My bad.

The new part went it pretty easily and started working imemdiately.
Then I just had to blow out my a/c drain and everything is the way it should be. All told? Probably an hour of my time. 2 max.